Sparkling wines are having a moment – here are some worth trying
- The world’s taking a shine to sparkling wines, be they from Champagne or elsewhere, but how do you choose the right one?
The quality of sparkling wines – be they from the French region of Champagne or elsewhere – has never been better. Grapes for sparkling wine are grown on cooler sites to retain acidity, while warmer, drier summers help with ripening and in mitigating vineyard diseases. Climate change has helped to improve the quality of English wines; California, in the United States, is experiencing a renaissance of sparkling wines, and Champagne has been producing more consistent and riper styles. With so many labels on the market, sparkling-wine lovers are now spoilt for choice. Here are a few worth trying.
Schramsberg Blanc de Noirs 2014, HK$488
Schramsberg dates to the 19th century, when German immigrant Jacob Schram made Diamond Mountain, in California, his home and built a winery there. In 1965, Jack and Jamie Davies acquired the winery and restored it to its former glory. Today, Schramsberg enjoys a stellar reputation and is often served at official functions at the White House.
English sparkling wines are pushing Champagne off its pedestal
The winery was a pioneer in making the blanc de noirs (white wine from black grapes) style of sparkling wine in 1967. Fruit is sourced mainly from cooler-climate vineyards located in Sonoma, Napa, Marin and Mendocino. It is made from 90 per cent pinot noir and 10 per cent chardonnay. Grapes are harvested early, in August, and undergo partial barrel fermentation and malolactic fermentation to add richness and textural layers to the wine.
A nose redolent of summery days with ripe strawberries and red fruit. Lush and silky on the palate with juicy fruit, balanced acidity and a creamy finish. A round, ripe and approachable style.
Available from Golden Gate Wine
Coates & Seely, Brut Reserve NV, HK$298
Christian Seely, managing director of AXA Millésimes, and Nicholas Coates are friends who, in 2006, started a business with the goal of making great English sparkling wine. The vineyards in the North Hampshire Downs of southern England are planted with pinot noir, pinot meunier and chardonnay. The areahas a similar climate and chalky soil as Champagne.
The brut reserve is composed of 65 per cent chardonnay and 35 per cent pinot noir. It is a blend from the 2009 and 2010 vintages, and has been aged for three years before release.
Vibrant citrus and pear with some yeasty, biscuit notes. Rich with zesty acidity, high intensity of fruit and finishing long. Refreshing and vibrant, and a joy to drink.
Available from Kerry Wines
Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002, HK$1,750
Florens-Louis Heidsieck, who moved from Germany to Reims, in Champagne, founded Heidsieck & Cie in 1785. Following his death, his nephew, Christian Heidsieck, took over, partnering with Henri-Guillaume Piper, who went on to marry Heidsieck’s widow. Thus was born Piper-Heidsieck.
The Rare is made only in exceptional vintages and has been released just nine times in the past 40 years. The wine is a blend of 70 per cent chardonnay and 30 per cent pinot noir. The fruit is sourced from low yielding vineyards that have an average age of 60 years, in the Montagne de Reims region. The wine has been aged for seven years before bottle release.
The 2002 vintage is considered to be one of the top two vintages of the past decade.
Fresh citrus and some floral and brioche notes. Rich and fleshy, with a steely backbone and delicate fruit. Well balanced, finely nuanced and finishing long. This is a delicious wine to drink now and will also age for many years to come.
Available from Wine ’n’ Things
