Dropping the ball

It’s Saturday and Khreshchatyk Street is closed to traffic. Each weekend the eight-lane thoroughfare, which has seen its share of tanks roar past over the years, morphs into a vibrant playground for the people of Kiev.

For 48 hours a small part of a large city becomes human in scale and convivial in atmosphere. Storytellers entertain children and the National Philharmonic of Ukraine perform for free. Babushkas stand chatting about the old days and a topless (male) choir raises funds for an orphanage with its attention-grabbing approach. Cafe owners arrange tables and chairs to maximise people-watching possibilities. There are puppet shows, a pan-pipe band and a ruddy-faced Scot who plays the bagpipes until passers-by donate enough money to make him stop.

Something is missing, however, and before long you begin to wonder where all the tourists are.

Ukraine co-hosted the Euro 2012 football tournament, which provided a muchneeded shot in the arm for the hospitality industry. In readiness, airport terminals were upgraded and high-speed trains introduced. Doctors, police officers and other frontline workers signed up for government-sponsored English lessons and bilingual signs appeared.

Fast forward a year and tourism chiefs feel the country has failed to capitalise on its summer in the spotlight. Sightseers still arrive from neighbouring Russia and Belarus but the international influx tapered off soon after the last ball was kicked.

Tourist office charm offensives are all very well but they require the goodwill of the general population. Kievites are rather indifferent towards foreign visitors. No one I meet could be described as rude but no one goes out of their way to be particularly helpful either. Still, if you don’t need anyone to hold your hand, Kiev is an underrated gem.