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Get up close with saltwater crocodiles in Australia’s Northern Territory. Photo: Alkira Reinfrank

Explore Australia’s wild Northern Territory: jumping crocs and billabongs in the tropical ‘Top End’

  • Giant saltwater crocodiles, Aboriginal rock art, open skies and national parks the size of nations are among the Top End’s attractions
  • A trip into the wetlands reveals a host of beautiful and sometimes deadly wildlife
Australia

“This billabong is home to Big Ass – he’s called that because he is a big ass croc”, ranger Rowan “Rowdy” Sutton tells us as we push off from the banks of the water inlet in a tin boat in search of the prehistoric creature.

He is talking about the male saltwater crocodile six metres (20ft) long that roams this winding billabong in the Mary River National Park, in Australia’s wild Northern Territory.

Billabongs – an Aboriginal word for bodies of water that form after the wet season – dot this tropical northern part of Australia known to locals as the “Top End”; the vast wetlands rising and receding with the seasons.

The Northern Territory, known to most simply as the NT, is a land of extremes. This lush Top End is a far cry from the arid outback, known as Australia’s “red centre”, which is home to Uluru, the famed sandstone monolith rock formation.

A classic Australian billabong. Photo: Alkira Reinfrank

As the sun starts to rise above the tree line in the Mary River wetlands, the wildlife makes the most of the crisp morning before the heat takes hold: the juvenile jabirus (black-necked stork) fight over food scavenged by their parents, the tail of a barramundi can be heard slapping the water, while small bubbles break on the surface of the billabong trailing our boat, signalling the presence of a curious submerged croc.

In Australia’s wild Top End, life is beautiful but dangerous. And it’s something guests are warned about as they enter the Wildman Wilderness Lodge in the Mary River wetlands, two hours’ drive southwest of the NT’s capital Darwin.
Wildman Wilderness Lodge’s Rowan ‘Rowdy’ Sutton. Photo: Alkira Reinfrank
The Mary River National Park is home to the “most saltwater crocodiles in the world”, says Rowdy, a ranger at Wildman. This particular billabong is also home to freshwater crocodiles, smaller than their larger “salty” cousins (despite the name, saltwater crocs can be found in both salt and fresh water.)

Rowdy explains that these wetlands flood to become double the size of Singapore in the wet season.

Even the lodge has to close down for part of the year, when it is cut off from the rest of the Top End during “the wet”. The rain brings with it new life.

Exploring the Mary River National Park is like taking “a step back in time”. Photo: Alkira Reinfrank

“It’s a step back in time exploring Mary River National Park. It is very real. It’s still the same as it was 200 years ago. It is pristine,” Rowdy says. With an unruly beard, and a knife on his hip, he’s the Crocodile Dundee figure you would hope to have around if you were to ever find yourself facing off with a croc.

Teeming with wildlife and open plains, the NT is not packed with the hordes of tourists seen in Australia’s other states.

Almost the same size as Mongolia and home to just 210,000 people, the NT is peaceful, pristine and untouched – making it the country’s jewel.

A jabiru in the Mary River wetlands. Photo: Alkira Reinfrank

A big part of the tourism industry in this remote part of the world is teaching guests from the “big smoke” about sustainability and how to preserve this land.

“Education is a big part of it. We are really lucky at Wildman and the Mary River that we have been able to preserve, through the national park, a whole chunk of land. It looks the same as it did many years ago,” Rowdy says, directing the boat down the billabong as he points out native birds and overhanging flora.

While Big Ass may have eluded us this morning, I cannot help but feel he knows we are here. After all, from the safety of our boat, we are some of the only people for hundreds of kilometres.

A large croc slides past the boat. Photo: Alkira Reinfrank

Yet, on the scale of the NT, the Mary River wetlands are a mere drop in the sea of this vast and varied region.

The NT’s Top End offers amazing natural experiences for the whole family. Here are six things to do while exploring Australia’s north to appreciate the might of the great outdoors.

Kakadu National Park is the same size as Israel. Photo: Alkira Reinfrank

Kakadu National Park

Three hours’ drive southwest of Darwin, Kakadu is Australia’s largest national park and is famed for its wetlands, sandstone escarpments and prehistoric Aboriginal rock paintings. This dual World Heritage Listed park is a must-see for visitors. The same size as Israel, the national park offers several activities, including bush walking, river cruises, bird watching, camping and four-wheel off road driving.

Explore a 1.5km walking circuit at Nourlangie that was once the home to generations of Aboriginal people during the wet season. The escarpment is home to some of the most outstanding Aboriginal rock art, dating back thousands of years.

Kakadu National Park entry prices vary depending on time of year and length of stay. For more information visit the government website.

 

Enjoy a sundowner at Leichhardt Point as you look over the expanse of the Mary River wetlands. Photo: Alkira Reinfrank

Leichhardt Point Sundowners, Mary River wetlands

As the sun goes down over Leichhardt Point that looks over the Mary River wetlands, you can spot the buffalo, brolga (crane), jabiru, dingoes and whistling ducks that call the national park home. Enjoy a cold drink and a cheese platter prepared by the Wildman Wilderness Lodge as you take in the seemingly endless expanse.

Leichhardt Point Sundowners, A$85 (US$58). For more information, visit the website

Visit the waterfalls and swim in crystal clear waters at Litchfield National Park. Photo: Alkira Reinfrank

Litchfield National Park

An amazing day trip from Darwin, Litchfield National Park has several stunning waterfalls, crystal clear pools, towering termite mounds and beautiful bush walks.

Pack your swimming gear and head to Florence Falls, where the water cascades into a plunge pool set in a secluded pocket of monsoon forest. A little further into the park, stop off for a refreshing swim at the cascading pool of Buley Rockhole. Here you will find people wading in the shallow pools, exploring the surrounding bush land or sunbathing and reading a book at the water’s edge.

Adelaide River Cruises’ jumping crocodile tour. Photo: Alkira Reinfrank

Jumping Crocs

You cannot go to the Top End and not marvel at the power and size of the crocodiles. On the Adelaide River, about an hour’s drive from Darwin, there are a number of jumping crocodile tours that give you the chance to see these powerful creatures at very close range, as they jump to catch small chunks of meat that are dangled overboard.

Adelaide River Cruises, adults A$45, children A$30, under-threes free. For more information visit their website.

Visit Mindil Beach at sunset for the view and the markets. Photo: Alkira Reinfrank

Mindil Beach Sunset Markets

Despite being so remote, Darwin is home to a multicultural community with strong influences from Southeast Asia, Europe and the Middle East. The best way to experience its background is to visit the city’s markets, where you can sample food from around the world and pick up handmade trinkets as gifts.

The most popular market for tourists and locals alike in Darwin is Mindil Beach Sunset Markets, which boasts over 200 food and handmade goods stalls. The real draw, though, is the sunset. Find a spot on the beach and enjoy the natural beauty of Darwin, as the sun sets over the ocean in all its blazing orange glory. For more information visit the website.

Alkira Reinfrank was a guest of the Wildman Wilderness Lodge.

Beware, some of the beautiful wildlife is deadly. Photo: Alkira Reinfrank

Before you go

Plan your trip before you go, as there can be hours of driving between locations. The NT is a large part of Australia where phone service is limited. Telstra has the best service coverage.

The NT is home to crocodiles and deadly jellyfish, so it is important to know which bodies of water are safe to swim in. Visit the government website before you travel to find out where and when you can swim.

Best time to go

The NT has two seasons – wet and dry. While the NT is beautiful all year round, it is best to visit during the dry season (May to October). November to April is extremely muggy and wet.

This article appeared in the South China Morning Post print edition as: Beauty and the beasts
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