Famous noodles, ‘fantastic’ pizza: where an Australian chef in Hong Kong goes for a late-night meal and his favourite place for creative Chinese food
- Michael ‘Mick’ Bolam is the executive chef of meat-centric restaurant Porterhouse in Hong Kong’s Central business and nightlife district
- He grew up eating ‘simple Aussie food’ and appreciates ‘honest, uncomplicated, yet refined flavours’. He shares his top spots that showcase these qualities
Hailing from the small town of Rutherford, New South Wales, chef Michael (Mick) Bolam of Porterhouse in Hong Kong has been working in the restaurant industry for 25 years. He spoke to Andrew Sun.
I grew up eating simple Aussie food. My single mother worked full time and did an amazing job raising two boys. But for us, it was cereal for breakfast, Vegemite (an Australian yeast extract spread) sandwiches for lunch, and a classic “meat and three veg” dinner every day.
It was only when I started my chef career that I saw food in a new light. After 25 years in this profession, I’ve now come almost full circle, and truly appreciate honest, uncomplicated, yet refined flavours and textures.
I’ve been in Hong Kong for seven years now and tried so many great Asian flavours. I even incorporate some Chinese elements into my dishes at Porterhouse, like the ginger scallion sauce with ’nduja butter.
Among my favourite places is Smoke & Barrel (1/F-2/F, 30-32 Wyndham Street, Central. Tel: 2866 2120). A group of us six chefs recently went for a smoked meats spread, which we loved. Pricing is also quite competitive and affordable.
A top date night spot is Francis (4-6 St. Francis Street, Wan Chai. Tel: 3101 9521). Their food is always solid, well composed and super tasty. I just love the concept. I always get the hummus and spiced beef cigars with green tahini. Service is also great – warm, friendly, efficient and unobtrusive. Shout out to Bradley on the floor. Big props!
My late night spot is Kau Kee (21 Gough Street, Central. Tel: 2850 5967). On the rare occasions I get out of work a little earlier, I like to venture here. They are famous and have been around for almost a century. It’s small communal tables, always packed but never uncomfortable. The go-to order is beef brisket noodles.
The place to bring mates from abroad is the pizza bar/trattoria Baci (G/F, California Tower, 30-32 D’Aguilar Street, Central. Tel: 2344 0005). Fun food, fun times, cool vibe, lively atmosphere.
Their award-winning pizzas are fantastic and all the staff, who treat you like family, are extremely friendly. Hot tip: ask for chef Alessandro! He loves to offer tailor-made menus.
I’d go here for dinner, do some people watching at the high table on the corner, nearest to the door.
My splurge restaurant would have to be Cultivate (27-29 Elgin St, Central. Tel: 5303 1230). Chef Leonard is a young, driven and desperately passionate chef. I enjoyed 12 courses last time I was there and the stand-out dish was his banana caviar: a five-spiced banana bread, with a banana miso brûlée on top, capped with salty pops of caviar. Great combination.
I believe his new version has a smoked banana ice cream, which I’m dying to try.
Another restaurant I love is The Chairman (3/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central. Tel: 2555 2202). I adore their pepper mud crab and steamed flowery crab with aged Chinese wine and chicken oil. They are great at adding a creative twist on traditional Chinese dishes. Be sure to book way in advance.
Back in Australia, Josh Niland has been doing miraculous things with fish for years. Last time I went home, I was fortunate enough to squeeze a dinner in Saint Peter (362 Oxford Street, Paddington, Sydney. Tel: +61 2 8937 2530).
All the dishes were stand-outs, but the eight-day dry-aged albacore tartare with Swansea bonito and pickled quandong fruit was breathtaking.
