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Bangkok street food vendors’ removal sparks debate about whether Thai capital’s food culture can survive

Loss of a signature feature of the city, ostensibly to clear footpaths for pedestrians, divides residents and visitors

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When the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration announced that it intended to purge the city’s streets of food vendors it stirred up a lot of anger. Photo: Shutterstock

The French have their cheeses and wines; the English have their fish and chips; the Germans have their sausages and beers, and the Thais have their street food – regularly cited in travel polls as the world’s best.

Thai junta’s crackdown on Bangkok street food intensifies with ban now taking effect across the entire city

There’s little wonder then that much debate was stirred up by the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration’s announcement that it intended to purge the city’s streets of the popular delicacies.

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All manner of stalls, makeshift carts and trolleys have long been a common sight on the pavements of Bangkok.

Busy vendors serve food to customers at a street-side stall in Bangkok, Thailand. Photo: Shutterstock
Busy vendors serve food to customers at a street-side stall in Bangkok, Thailand. Photo: Shutterstock

For a couple of US dollars, locals and tourists alike enjoy such food as kwea teow (noodles with fish balls), gai pad med mamooang (chicken with cashew nuts), neaua yang (strips of barbecued beef), and a host of other delicious dishes and snacks.

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The April announcement, by Wanlop Suwandee, chief adviser to Bangkok’s governor, caught many by surprise. Wanlop said the local government was “working to get rid of stalls from all 50 districts of Bangkok” and “return the pavements to pedestrians” by the end of this year.

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Rather than imposing an outright ban on the sale of food on the streets, however, the government says its intention is only to reorganise and regulate vendors to ensure higher quality and better hygiene.

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