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Death knell for Life Cafe, where Hong Kong’s organic health food revolution began

Restaurant that’s latest to fall victim to rent squeeze opened by the Mid-Levels escalator soon after Sars outbreak and was first in Hong Kong to serve quinoa and gluten-free food, says founder; for years it was a hangout for the yoga crowd, and a film and music venue too

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Life Cafe on Shelley Street, Central. People queued to get in when it first opened in 2004.
Bernice Chanin Vancouver

Vegetarian and vegan restaurant Life Café on Shelley Street is the latest victim of high rents and will close its doors this Saturday after over a decade in business. Its sister locations in Discovery Bay and Wan Chai having already closed, it will be the end of Life Café as a brand and a concept.

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For founder Bobsy Gaia, the restaurant was a pioneer in offering quality healthy organic food to people starving for an alternative to fast food or places that didn’t break the bank.

SEE ALSO: Louis’ Steak House, opened in 1970s, forced out due to rising rents

SEE ALSO: Restaurateurs see opportunities in Hong Kong as retail rents slip

Although he left Life Café in 2009 to focus on Mana!, which he later opened in Wellington Street, Central, Gaia has fond memories of the Soho restaurant, particularly its humble beginnings.

Bobsy Gaia has fond memories of Life Cafe, which he left in 2009 to open Mana! nearby.
Bobsy Gaia has fond memories of Life Cafe, which he left in 2009 to open Mana! nearby.
He started Bookworm Café on Lamma Island in 1997, and it soon became the place for international healthy organic fare. Customers encouraged Gaia to open in Central, but it took him a few years to not only find the necessary capital, but also the right spot.

“We were looking at locations towards the end of [the] Sars] outbreak and the sentiment back then was this desperation for healthy food was so strong,” recalls Gaia. “When we opened, I had a three-storey banner that read, ‘Finally! An organic health café in Hong Kong’ and from day one we had queues. At the time there was nowhere else to eat healthy and organic.”

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Life, which later became Life Café, introduced many firsts to Hong Kong, Gaia says, including gluten-free food, quinoa and a salad bar concept.

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