This is a light, quick and easy starter that’s surprisingly flavourful despite having just a few ingredients. If you want to be really indulgent, substitute sturgeon caviar for the flying fish roe.
You can buy peeled amaebi (sweet shrimp), tobiko caviar and shiso flowers or leaves in any shop specialising in Japanese ingredients.
Place a large pot of salted water over a high flame. Bring the water to the boil, add the pasta and cook until al dente. Drain the pasta, rinse with cold water then drain again.
Set aside six amaebi to use as a garnish. Cut the remaining shrimp into 5mm (¼in) pieces. Set aside one-third of the caviar to use as garnish.
Rinse the pasta again again with cold water, then drain it and shake off the excess liquid. Put the pasta in a mixing bowl and add the olive oil and a light sprinkling of salt. Use your hands to mix the ingredients, adding more oil, if necessary, so it very lightly coats the pasta strands.
Mix the chopped amaebi and 60g (2oz) of tobiko caviar with the pasta. Use a fine-toothed rasp-type grater (such as a Microplane) to grate the lemon zest over the ingredients and mix again. Taste the pasta and add salt, if necessary. Divide the pasta between six appetiser plates and garnish with the shiso flowers (or finely shredded shiso leaves) and the reserved amaebi and tobiko caviar. Serve immediately.